Monday 7 January: Ait BenHaddou to Todra Gorge

The minaret is so close that it is impossible not to be woken by the 7 am Call to Prayer. Sunrise over the arid rocky terrain casts a golden pink light on the surroundings as we enjoy a hearty breakfast of home made yoghurt, pancakes, jams and omelette. On the road at 10.00 our first stop is the Atlas Film Studios in Ouarzazate. A somewhat surreal experience involving a guided tour around an eclectic mix of film sets including pyramids, Egyptian temples, Bethlehem backstreets and a Game of Thrones fortress. All made of plaster of course. The arid landscape offering the perfect backdrop. Onwards to Skoura Oasis and an off road track through palm trees and greenery passing hundreds of Kasbahs in various states of decay. We have a tour of one impressive Kasbah on several floors with panoramic views of the valley. Then to Roses Valley where in May they harvest 4000 tons of rose petals from the Damask Rose originally brought from Damascus as trade. We do our first rather half hearted bartering for some Rose Oil and share some couscous on a rooftop terrace. Next to the Dades Valley in which Silver Birch are grown for tall straight trunks to make roofs. The fertile soil by the river bank also allows cultivation of olives, figs and cereal crops. The banks are dotted with Berber villages set into the terracotta cliffs. Finally on to the Todra Gorge with its 300m cliff sides which are popular for climbers. We walk a little in the evening sunlight before reaching our hotel, the Auberge Festival, and tonight our bedrooms are set into caves!